Option #2 - Bentley Service Manual method. 1. Raise vehicle %26amp; support 2. Disconnect battery 3. Remove fuel tank vent valve 1. disconnect vent hoses via quick fit connectors 2. straighten retaining tab 3. slide vent valve off bracket 4. remove electrical harness connector 4. Remove splash shield under engine 3 bolts, 2 screws 5. Remove Right font wheel 6. Remove Right front wheel housing liner 7. Remove alt belt 1. Use special tool 11 8 390 to release drive belt tension 2. Use lock pin (special tool 11 8 280) to lock drive belt tensioner 3. lift off drive belt 8. Remove Intake Manifold 1. Remove air filter housing 1. Detach air duct from air filter housing 2. detach wire harness 3. Remove air filter housing mounting screws 4. Detach crankcase breather hose 5. Lift air filter housing 2. remove throttle valve assembly 1. Loosen %26amp; remove air duct clamp at throttle assembly 2. detach air duct 3. disconnect electric harness connector 4. detach fuel vent line 5. loosen %26amp; remove 4 throttle assembly mounting screws 6. lift off throttle assembly 3. Remove brake booster vacuum line 1. Press brake booster vacuum line locking ring downward to detach from manifold 2. remove hose from PCV valve 4. Remove fuel rail cover 1. Squeeze locking tabs to detach rear of cover 2. tilt and pull cover forward until plastic clips detach from fuel rail (careful, they break easily) 5. Detach electrical harness connector from intake air temp/MAP sensor 6. Detach electrical harness connector from knock sensor 7. Disconnect top fuel vent line and unclip at fuel rail 8. Detach Fuel Rail from top of engine 1. disconnect fuel injector electrical harness connector 2. disconnect harness connector 3. remove cover from harness loom and swing harness out of way to left side of engine 4. working at fuel rail, unclip hoses and ducts. Cut wire tires as needed 5. disconnect vacuum line at base of fuel pressure regulator 6. remove 2 fuel rail mounting bolts 9. Remove fuel rail together with fuel injectors from intake manifold 1. unclip fuel line from engine vibrations damper bracket 2. carefully fold hose to right %26amp; rear of engine. Protect fuel rail %26amp; injectors in a clean plastic bag 10. Remove oil dipstick 11. Remove intake manifold mounting bolts in sequence working outside to inside 12. Unclip coolant line below manifold 13. lift manifold 9. Remove alternator 1. Remove 3 bolts for alternator, one plug in connector at alt. and 10mm nut for B positive wire on Alt. When reinstalling, don't forget to do the following... 1. replace intake manifold profile gaskets 2. torque manifold to cylinder head to 26 Nm 3. Coat fuel injector sealing o-rings with anti seize agent 4. torque fuel rail to intake manifold to 25 Nm 5. Replace sealing ring between throttle valve assembly and intake manifold 6. torque throttle valve assembly to intake manifold to 9 Nm 7. torque air filter housing to body 7-10 Nm 8. Replace air duct clampHow to change an Alternator for a 2004 Mini Cooper?Just get a new car!
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How to change an Alternator for a 2004 Mini Cooper?They designed the damn car around the alternator! Just like the Porsche 911 Carrera...the sparks were designed with the car around it!!Save yourself aggravation...take it to a masochist mechanic....they like pain.How to change an Alternator for a 2004 Mini Cooper?The engine compartment is so tight dude...major p.i.t.a.
It should look something like this (this is a shot of the turbo engine)
http://www.roadfly.com/new-cars/wp-conte…
First off: Disconnect the positive terminal on the BATTERY! SERIOUSLY!
See that metal piece with the vents connected with the serpentine belt? That's the alternator. The thing right above it that's depressing the serpentine belt is the tensioner. Release the tension on the tensioner (or remove it); remove the serpentine belt. Remove the bolts holding the alternator in place with a torque wrench and metric sockets. Replace the alternator also reconnecting the alt to battery cables. Torque the alternator bolts to factory specs. Re-guide the serpentine belt in the factory configuration removing tension from the tensioner (or reinstalling the tensioner). Voila...it's done.
But...the thing I'm not telling you is that because the engine compartment is so cramped on a mini cooper you ALMOST always have to work on the engine from beneath, meaning you have to remove the plastic shrouds and pretty much do everything upside down if you don't have a lift. You can do it with ramps but you'll be on your back 100% of the time. Hence...P.I.T.A.
